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Wednesday, June 27, 2012

Dahlonega

About an easy hour north of Atlanta, its 4 lane highway all the way.

The story: All of the North Georgia mountains belonged to the Cherokee, well after they took it away from the Creek; and then the Creek took it away from the Mound builders.  Oh, and they took it from the Woodlands Indians.  But never mind- we're picking up the European story here.  Cherokee were hanging out here for a while.  DeSoto and his boy scouts waved hello to them in 1540.  But then the white guys just didn't stop coming.  Squished into a smaller, undesirable corner of mountains, something earth shattering happened.  The white guys found gold (the Indians and even DeSoto's boys knew it was there already).  That was 1828.  The nation's first gold rush.  On Cherokee land.  Cherokee weren't too happy 'bout that.  No matter.  Like a two-year-old, the white guys yelled "mine!" and they took it.  Cherokee shouted "foul" and the Supereme Court of the US agreed.  "No matter", says President Andy Jackson Indian-Hater, "mine!", and they took the land away from the Cherokee.  And they shipped them out west on the Trail of Tears.


Free to mine the crap outta the gold veins, they did just that.  When panning gold took too long, they dug mines. When mining too too long, they took giant fire hoses and blasted the sides of the mountains with high pressure water.  One working gold mine remains in Dahlonega.  The town has become a hub for mountain music, mountain livin', mountain eatin' and mountain wineries.
 


The sites:







The town square has an old courthouse that is transformed into a gold museum, run by the state parks service.  There was a pretty, short film upstairs- perfect for short attention spans.  














Gold Museum- Moonshine exhibit
Gold Museum- Cherokee exhibit
  

           Outside the courthouse/museum they have a mountain jam every Saturday.  
                                                                             Yee-Haw.




The stores facing the town square were cute, but you know- same old schlock.  The restaurants were cute too.  These two story covered fronts reminded us of Roswell.









We got to visit two wineries- sort of.  We arrived at Monteluce 5 minutes after the closed for lunch.  we arrived at Wolf Mountain five minutes before they closed.  Yeah.  Note to self: check closing times before heading out.


Monteluce entrance

One review described it as 'Olive Garden on steroids'

Monteluce vineyard


Wolf Mountain

AMAZING view from Wolf Mountain- wedding pavilion 



Honestly, both vineyards were nice in their own way,  but we'd go back to Wolf Mountain again. Both places have tastings and places to eat, but alas, we did neither.




We did stop at Consolidated Mine and they had an underground tour of the old mine, but I'm claustrophobic (ask me about the caves in Orvieto) and Deb talked me out of it.  They had a shite gift shop too.  So, we went on to Crisson's Gold Mine- the last working gold mine.
The expression 'here's gold in them thar hills' was coined here in Dahlonega.

Entrance fee allows you to tour the grounds
Panning for real gold (and eating an ice cream)
Can you see those little flecks of gold?  Deb found 8 flecks!
  


More moonshine
You know we had to find an old graveyard, and we did.  Cavender Creek Baptist Church was nearby, and we drove all the way to the back 40 to see the really old graves.

There were lots of stone markers with no writing.

Old Dowdy grave.  It looks like both Mary and George Dowdy died on the same day in 1884.

 The Dowdy and Brady families came to North Georgia with the gold rush land lottery. They came from North Carolina.  Many fought in the Civil War.  Not all returned.

Deb started picking up some negative vibes here.  She heard/felt someone telling her to get off the land- that it was desecrated.  We went home to research any history in Cavendar Creek, but could find nothing.


The food:  Well this is one trip where many of the food choices didn't pan out (get it? gold panning joke).  We expected to eat at Monteluce and Wolf Mountain, but missed the lunch hours.



First stop: Corkscrew Cafe (http://thecorkscrewcafe.com/).  Service- eh.  New waitress deserved a little slack, but in a wine-crazy town like Dahlonega, you'd think her orientation training would include some wine education.  Food actually made up for the strange service.  












 Next stop: Crimson Moon (http://www.thecrimsonmoon.com/).  Coffee shop, restaurant, live music venue.  We just got coffees cuz we had our sights set on German food for dinner in Cumming.



And last stop on the way home: Gasthaus in Cumming (http://www.gasthaus-cumming.com/).  German food!



Deb got the wurst plate and I got the chicken paprika with a Warstiener on tap.


Day's end recommendations:

  • Check the hours of the wineries- sometimes they close for weddings when you least expect it
  • Gold Museum, Crisson Mine, Wolf Mountain and Gasthaus got 2 thumbs up from 2 old ladies
  • Corkscrew Cafe might be worth a second visit
  • Most shops around the square were not worth the look-see

Tuesday, June 26, 2012

Roswell

The story: Roswell King, back in the early 1800's came by, saw the Vickery Creek that joined the Chattahoochee river  and thought "gee, what a great place to live and maybe I can even build a mill by this creek".  He built a house and brought his family.  They were bored, so they invited 6 of their BFFs to build houses too.  It was good.  They built a church and school. They built a cotton mill.  Roswell's kids were sittin' high on the hog.  Barrington King built a big-ass town house with beautiful gardens. But life wasn't so good back at the mill.  They worked 6 days a week from 'can't see to can't see', meaning it was dark when they left for work and dark when they got home.  Kids worked the mill too.  Workers put in 11-12 hours a day and this led to Georgia legislation limiting the number of hours worked each to ten hours. Including Saturdays.  Workers were paid in credit at the Company Store.  One worker complained that one week, his dad came out OWING the company after all the family's charges were totaled. Worker housing included the typical mill houses and a new fangled thing called rowhouses.

Here comes the interesting part: during the Civil War, Sherman's men captured the city and inventoried the mill.  Only women and children were working there- about 400 of them.  They were making tent fabric used by Confederate soldier.  The general's orders were to treat all 400 women and children as traitors.  They were charged with treason against the USA.  They were ordered to march to nearby Marietta, sleep in the square and board trains for federal prisons up north.  Many never returned.  One woman and her daughter walked home after the war, only to find her husband re-married- thinking her dead.  The city of Roswell has a monument to these 400 women and children.

The mill was destroyed in the war, and then again by fire.  You can walk by the river and see the ruins and the old Vickery Dam that was used to power the mill.



You know I gotta stop at the free visitor center. Nice exhibit and nice place to start.

The sites:






 The old Company Store was right next door to teh visitor center. it houses a J. Christopher now.  But we ate breakfast in Sandy Spring.  Food later.  Sites now.








 The town square was across the street from the visitor center.  The fountain had an obelisk and six stones with the names of the six BFF families who decided it would be cool to start a town together.





All around the square were beautiful homes.  Most were designated as 'event spaces', so we saw more than a few weddings.  The visitor center gave us a walking tour map, so we could tell a little history of each home as we walked past.








This is that first small church that the six BFFs built in the early 1800's.  They built a big ole church next door.









 And here's that big ole church.





Across a busy street, the old graveyard for that old small church.  This marker notes that Roswell's distinguished gentlemen were buried here.


The Smith Plantation.  You actually park in the town hall parking lot.  Its free to walk around and check out the smaller buildings on the grounds.  








The slave cabin on the plantation grounds







The spring house was a cool place with a spring.  Its where the family kept dairy products so they wouldn't spoil.




Found another graveyard!  This is the founder's graveyard, so Roswell King was buried here.






Slaves were buried here too.  They got  graves marked with those nameless stones.





On to the Roswell Mill park.  There is a nice trail that takes you to the falls, but we didn't know that.  Instead, we crossed the bridge and headed into the dirt trails.





Deb standing in the middle of the bridge.  It was actually crawling with prom dates when we were there.






Deb slogging up the dirt paths.  Gotta see that waterfall.  Even with a nasty storm cloud heading our way.  We booked it.  What a work out.  Note to self: next time take the gentle trail on the parking lot side of the park!




 We made it!  Vickery Dam!



Barrington Hall.  This is where Roswell's son lived.  There's some connection to Teddy Roosevelt's mom.  It actually sits on the main square with the other cool houses.  While all the old houses and the mill are clustered here, the eateries and shops are a little north on Canton Street.








View from the gardens at Barrington Hall.











The Food:



Breakfast on the way: Sandy Springs.  Flavor- just off Roswell Road. (http://www.flavorcafebakery.com/)  This was a little different.  You order at the counter and find a seat.  You hunt someone down to refill the coffee.  It was pretty though.







The Leo: scrambled eggs with salmon and onions and a very Eastern European style biscuit with an egg glaze.  AWESOMEness.  For real.



Canton Street in Roswell.  Busy, vibrant, colorful, 2 blocks long.  We liked the cool restaurant that provided picnic blankets on their rolling grass lawn.  What a unique idea.  Lots o antique shops.  Not so much parking.








First stop: Roswell Provisions.  Fresh stuff.  Every day.

http://www.roswellprovisions.com/





Fresh meats, fresh coffee, cute stuff



Wha?  Gelato too?
We're never leaving!







               Outdoor seating too!


Next stop: Roux on Canton.  http://rouxoncanton.com/


They have Dixie beer!  But their bar-b-que shrimp were NOT New Orleans style.  C'mon guys.  Its butter, garlic, lemon and roux and woo!







          And outdoor seating!






Next stop: Greenwood's on Green Street.
A little flashback to the late 1960's
http://greenwoodsongreenstreet.com/






Did I mention that they are known for their pies?




Restaurant was a rambling old farmhouse made with old hand hewn planks.



They had a garden on the side of the restaurant.  
Nice use of an old truck!




Colorful outdoor porch overlooking the garden.  Notice the tree growing up through the porch?




     OMG shrimp and grits




But wait.  there's more.  Chocolate pie.  It was HUGE.







You can see the planks used in the farmhouse





We'll be back Greenwood's!
You're on our list now.